The traditional X-ray marker is constructed from a 3-part process. The first step is to create a base color and design. You can make this base with any color and glitter design you choose, as long as the materials used are radiolucent. The second step is to decide how you want your letters arranged on your markers. Traditionally, your L/R are bigger than your initials. I recommend the 1/2″ or 3/8″ for L/R letters. The final step is to seal everything with a clear top coat of epoxy. See below for details on each step below.
SUPPLIES:
- Silicone Mold 1″ x 1.5″ from Miniiplanet ($18)
- Mini Torch Lighter ($10)
- Art Resin (yields approx 600 markers) ($0.08 ea)
- Epoxy Opaque Dyes by ETI-USA (1 red/1 blue: $20)
- Plastic Medicine Cups ($0.03/marker)
- Popsicle Sticks ($0.03 ea/marker)
- Letters 1/2″ L 10 Pk ($4.00)
- Letters 1/2″ R 10 Pk ($4.00)
- Letters 1/4″ 1 Initials 10 Pk (2 x $4.00 = $8.00)
- Letters 1/4″ 2 Initials 10 Pk (2 x $4.00 = $8.00)
- Letters 1/4″ 3 Initials 10 Pk (2 x $4.00 = $8.00)
TOTAL: $33 / 10 markers = $3.30 each
OPTIONAL SUPPLIES
UV Resin (OPTIONAL) ($20)
Transparent Dyes (OPTIONAL) ($12)
Glitter (OPTIONAL) ($10)
Silicone Table Mat (OPTIONAL) ($13)
Heating Bubble Buster Mat (OPTIONAL) ($13)
Medicine Bottle Adapters (OPTIONAL) ($8)
3mL Syringes (OPTIONAL) ($12)
Toaster Oven (OPTIONAL) ($20)
ALERT: Make sure you are in a well-ventilated room and using gloves. If you plan to make a lot of markers, it is also HIGHLY recommended that you use a ventilation mask. TIP: place a box fan in the window blowing outward with fresh air circulating into the room.
EPOXY: I highly recommend ART RESIN! Besides being Made in the USA, it is also a low-odor Epoxy and readily available online or on Amazon. I also recommend using ETI Dyes which are readily available at your local Hobby Lobby or on Amazon. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on mixing and storing.
NOTE ABOUT ART RESIN: Radiation will turn your markers yellow without a UV Inhibitor. You can purchase an additive online like SUPER-UV or you can buy a resin with one added already like Art Resin!
TIP: Pour a small portion of the Epoxy in workable Medicine Bottles. Insert a bottle adapter into the opening and use a syringe with a Luer Slip Tip to make sure you are measuring equal parts every time!
Here are my basic supplies. Most are available at your local craft store like Hobby Lobby, Michaels and even Walmart. Walmart has small cookie sheets that work perfectly to cover my projects, and then later, for me to give them a quick bake cure in the toaster over 😉
MOLDS: I also recommend using Miniiplanet’s 1.5″ x 1″ mold. You can make up to 8 individual markers, and it’s heat resistant. It’s perfect for making x-ray markers.
INSTRUCTIONS:
STEP 1 (BASE): Use 1cc each of part A and B per marker (8cc’s each if you are using the Miniiplanet mold). Use about 1-2 drops of dye (or use transparent dyes with glitter or no dye at all). You should have about 2cc’s of epoxy for each base. Mix using a wooden stick according to the manufacturer’s instructions. You can place your cup of mixed epoxy on the Heating Mat for about 5-10 mins to de-bubble. Pour your mixed epoxy into your molds or use the syringe tip I previously described. Use a lighter to remove any leftover bubbles. Cover to protect from dust and allow to sit for 24-hrs.
CURING TIP: If you need your markers FAST, once you’re confident your pieces are free from bubbles, place in a toaster over on WARM at, about, 200 degrees for about 30 minutes. Make sure your mold can withstand the heat. This will cure your piece fast enough to work with. Do NOT use the toaster oven you use for food! I typically allow mine to sit for 24hrs and then cure in the toaster oven.
STEP 2 (LETTERS): Our Flat Face Lead Letters are wide enough to avoid burn-out, and thin enough to make thin x-ray markers. Use the UV Resin like “glue” for placing your lead letters. WARNING: do NOT use UV Resin in a thick layer or it will curl your piece; it also smokes. Use the 1/2″ or 3/8″ Letters for L & R, and 1/4″ for your initials. If you are making tiny, shaped markers, I recommend the 3/8″ for L/R or just the 1/4″ with only 2 initials instead of 3.
Letter Placement and decor are personal preferences. If you “hide” them, I recommend using colors you can remember for your Left and Right. If you have a Cricut machine, play around with vinyl images (stickers). You only need a small Cricut machine if you don’t already have one. Unless you seal top, bottom and sides, I do NOT recommend paper…it also causes bubbles. You can print to vinyl on your printer and just cut out by hand if you don’t want to invest in a Cricut machine. TIP: Steve McDonald has a great tip using tape on his YouTube channel.
STEP 3 (TOP LAYER): You can remove your bases from the molds or leave them in the molds. If you leave in the molds, do not remove and break the seal; your clear layer will leak down the sides and under it, requiring sanding. Here’s a great video on how to dome your base to for a nice, finished look. If you use the cup method like in the video, I recommend taping your cups down so they don’t move. You can also place a small dab of glue from a glue gun under each marker so it doesn’t slide off the cups.
Personally, I prefer placing the bases directly on my Silicone Mat. The round molds capture any leakage (boo-boos) I might have. I bought one for my tabletop, and the other I cut to fit in 4 Mini Cookie Sheets making it easier to move my projects around once done.
Your top layer can be anything you want, but traditionally, it’s just a clear coat of epoxy. Mix equal parts of A & B for about 2c’sc for each marker or follow manufacturer’s directions. It’s better to have slightly more epoxy than not enough but using the syringe method makes it easy to mix very small, measured amounts if you need it. Use your lighter to remove any bubbles. TIP: allow your pieces to sit for about 15-20 minutes, and then go over with a lighter before placing in your toaster oven.
REMOVING A CURED BUBBLE: Use a Dremel to “dremel” down any areas where you have bubbles or overspill. Wash off with soap and water, dry THOROUGHLY and then cover with another clear coat of epoxy. NOTE: if you sand or Dremel down your epoxy pieces, make sure you are in a well-ventilated area, and dust off your clothes before going into the house. I position my wet-vac hose in my lap as I sand my pieces.
USING PAPER: If you decide to experiment with paper images, it is VERY important that you completely seal your pieces first. A good tip is to just fold it in a piece of clear packing tape, pressing the top, bottom and edges with a flat smoothing tool. You can also print on Vinyl to avoid this.
GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROJECT!!!!